How to Fix a Leaky Faucet: Step-by-Step Repair Guide (2026)

A faucet that drips once per second wastes over 3,000 gallons of water per year — enough to fill a small swimming pool. Most leaky faucets can be fixed in under an hour with $5–$25 in parts. This guide walks you through diagnosing your faucet type and making the repair, plus the honest assessment of when it's time to call a pro.

Step 1: Identify Your Faucet Type

The repair approach depends entirely on the faucet mechanism. There are four main types:

• Ball faucet — Single handle that rotates over a rounded ball-shaped cap. Common in kitchens. Leaks from the spout or base. Has a ball inside with springs and seats.
• Cartridge faucet — Single or double handle with a cartridge inside that controls water flow. Very common in modern bathrooms. Usually drips from the spout.
• Ceramic disc faucet — Wide cylindrical body with a single lever. High-end faucets. Almost never leak — when they do, it's usually sediment on the disc.
• Compression faucet — Two separate handles (hot/cold), turns like a wheel. Older style. Very common in pre-1980s homes. Leaks from a worn rubber washer.

Step 2: Gather Your Tools and Parts

Parts to buy: Take the model number off the faucet (usually underneath or on the body) and bring it or the old parts to a hardware store. Alternatively, a universal repair kit for your faucet brand covers most worn parts for $8–$20.

Step 3: Turn Off the Water Supply

This is the step most DIYers skip or rush — don't. Under every sink there are two shutoff valves on the supply lines (one hot, one cold). Turn them clockwise until they stop. Then open the faucet handles to release any remaining pressure and drain the lines. Keep a towel or small bowl under the work area — there will be residual water.

Fixing a Compression Faucet (Older Two-Handle Style)

Compression faucets are the simplest to repair. They leak because a rubber washer at the bottom of the stem wears out.

Fixing a Cartridge Faucet (Modern Single or Double Handle)

Cartridge faucets are extremely common in modern homes. The cartridge itself is the part that fails — most hardware stores carry replacement cartridges for major brands (Moen, Delta, Kohler, Price Pfister).

1. Remove the handle by prying off the decorative cap and unscrewing the handle screw. Pull the handle straight up.
2. You'll see the cartridge — a cylinder with a stem coming out of it. Note which direction the cartridge faces before removing (take a photo).
3. Pull the cartridge straight up (it may require needle-nose pliers or a cartridge puller tool). Some are held by a retaining clip — remove that first.
4. Take the old cartridge to a hardware store to match it exactly, or look up your faucet model online. Moen cartridges in particular are very specific to the model.
5. Insert the new cartridge in the same orientation as the original. Replace the retaining clip. Reassemble the handle and test.

Fixing a Ball Faucet (Single-Handle Kitchen)

Ball faucets have more components than other types and benefit from a repair kit. Delta, for example, sells complete ball faucet repair kits for under $15 that include everything: springs, seats, O-rings, and a cam assembly.

1. Remove the handle (usually a setscrew on the side using an Allen key).
2. Remove the cap and collar using pliers (wrap in tape to avoid scratching).
3. Remove the cam, washer, and ball, noting how they orient.
4. Use needle-nose pliers to remove the springs and inlet seats from inside the faucet body.
5. Roll the ball in your hand — feel for rough spots or pitting. Replace if needed.
6. Install new springs, seats, and O-rings from the repair kit. Lubricate with plumber's grease.
7. Reinstall the ball in the correct orientation, then reassemble cam, collar, cap, and handle.

Fixing a Ceramic Disc Faucet

Ceramic disc faucets are the most durable — a properly functioning one can last decades. When they do leak, it's almost always sediment on the ceramic disc rather than a broken part.

1. Remove the handle and unscrew the cylinder (may need an Allen key at the base).
2. Remove the cylinder and lift out the ceramic discs (there are typically two).
3. Clean the discs gently with a non-abrasive scrub pad under running water. Do not use steel wool or harsh cleaners — ceramic discs scratch easily and a scratched disc must be replaced.
4. Inspect the seating area inside the cylinder for mineral buildup and clean that too.
5. Lubricate with silicone grease, reassemble, and test.

Common Leaky Faucet Problems and Causes

• Dripping from the spout: Worn washer (compression), worn cartridge, or worn ball assembly. Most common cause.
• Leaking at the base of the spout: Worn O-rings around the body. Usually easy to replace.
• Leaking from the handle: Worn packing or O-ring on the stem. More common with compression faucets.
• Dripping after handle turned off: Classic worn washer or seat problem — especially common with compression faucets over 10 years old.
• Low water pressure after repair: Aerator may have debris. Unscrew the aerator from the tip of the spout and rinse it out.

When to Replace Instead of Repair

Sometimes a leaky faucet is a symptom of a larger problem. Consider replacement if:

• The faucet is more than 15–20 years old and you've already replaced the same parts before
• There's visible corrosion on the body or valves
• The repair parts cost more than 50% of a new faucet
• Multiple things are failing simultaneously (handle, base, spout all leaking)
• The finish is worn or the style is outdated and you're planning a renovation anyway

A new mid-range faucet runs $50–$150 for bathrooms and $100–$300 for kitchens. Installation by a handyman adds $75–$150. A full faucet replacement is a 1–2 hour job.

When to Call a Professional

Faucet repair is genuinely DIY-friendly for most homeowners. Call a handyman or plumber if:

• The leak is coming from the supply lines or wall — that's a different problem
• Corrosion has frozen the valves and you can't disassemble the faucet
• You can't turn off the water supply (no shutoff valves, main won't close)
• The job turned into something larger (cracked pipe, corroded fitting)
• You've made two repair attempts and the faucet still drips